Web - COA-with-text-WA-white - 500px x 430px

30 Sep – 02 Oct

Til Next GP RACE 🇹🇭


Rick & Louise all about the Bikes

Still  Riding the Track

Growing old Disgracefully


Time to start the fun job of fixing the fairings and other stuff. Leaving the brochure here as used it for the guide and confirmation of locations.

There are two ways to remove the oem headstock. First is the quicker way by not removing the tank etc… 2nd is removing the tank, with hindsight (which is a great thing) will do this instead of the quick and not so easy way. Oh just found the right way 20220625

The only I could see to do this as there are nuts on the inside of the air tunnel is to to force and keep tension on the nut by prising a screwdriver in there whilst undoing the bolt.

After getting the top two bolts out, I was able to pull the Stay down and the top came away and was able to remove the bottom two bolts by locking the inner nut the correct way and unbolting via the outer bolt.

headlights sad

The Pain with the Street although it is a naked and all parts are easy to remove and add when performing a general service. When you want to add mods or replace other stuff you then have to start removing things like the tank. All those cables need hiding away some where.

So the magnificent lights have to be removed, and you want British quality these are a prime example of this, these lights are solid and heavy.

So off with the tank, followed by the airbox. The airbox had to come off anyway as the inner nuts from the stay disappeared in there somewhere.

airbox with free sand

So off with the tank, followed by the airbox. The airbox had to come off anyway as the inner nuts from the stay disappeared in there somewhere.

And on looking inside of the airbox, some more Wanneroo Raceway sand. Don’t want that sucked into the engine, be really sad.

headlight connectors

There is a bracket under the yoke that keeps the light and dash cables locked in. You dont have to remove this. Loosen it enough so you can ‘wiggle’ out the cables. You would have already disconnected the light cables to the main loom after the airbox was removed. 

Now the stay and the headlights can be fully removed from the bike. I wouldn’t recommend removing the lights from stay – would bring on a whole new world of hurt.

controls mount fitted
controls mount

The aftermarket stay can now be fixed, this is required so the front mask or fairing can be secured fully. You have to remove the three (3) rubber grommets from the oem plastic backing plate and fix them in the after market mount. The dash will now fit and be fixed in the plate. the dash cable simple fits in  underneath. Before all of that you have to drill and fit the carbon fibre air scoop/ tunnel, fairly fiddly. I put it in the housing and the drilled through the bolt holes on the mounting and through the carbon. Then fitted the top nut and bolt, then drilled out the botton of the scoop whilst fitted and couldn’t move now because of the top bolt. Then fitted bottom bolt, remember to add the metal aftermarket dash mount too haha.

carbon air tunnel

Now to fit the 4 brackets into their assigned spots

Whahooo now to start fitting the gel coated fibre glass fairings.This naked is getting dressed up to go to the party 🙂

The Belly Pan is first to go on, some holes are predrilled and some aren’t but the are indents, so you know where to drill. I drilled a pilot hole first to sse if it did line up and would obstruct any thing like forks (yep done a few fairing fits including the ebay chinese ones) Once happy with this I drilled the full size (8mm) . Bolted in both sides and left it fairly loose for adjustment when the other pieces are added.

I need to add I have had to remove the side crash OGGY knobs and the engine cover crash protectors pre fitting the fairings. once the full front fairing kit is on and fixed, I’ll worked what needs skimming or cutting.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *